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The History of Gold Jewelry, Part 2

In the first article of this series we have seen how gold jewelry was developed in ancient civilization Sumerian, as well as in Egypt and Crete. The technique of making fine gold jewelry spread to Greece, northern Europe and the Celtic people as well. Now let's look role played by gold jewelry in pre-Roman era and during the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

In the seventh century BC, the Etruscans in central Italy were also the development of fine gold jewelry. The Etruscans perfected the difficult technique of granulation, a technique in which the surface is covered with tiny metal grains gold.

In Greece during the Hellenistic period (the period immediately after the time of Alexander the Great, 323-30 BC) Greek jewelry was characterized for its great variety of forms and fine workmanship. Naturalistic wreaths were made for the head, and a variety of miniatures – human, animal and plant – are made into necklaces and Earrings.

The Heracles-knot, developed in Greece, is still a popular motif in Roman times.

colorful jewels was an important feature of the period of Migration (fourth to eighth centuries AD) that followed the collapse of the Roman Empire. Mediterranean goldsmiths continued to produce refined jewelry but jewelry from European tribes dominated the period. They produced abstract styles and worked in enamels and inlaid stones. This is also the period of the penannular, or nearly circular, brooches of Ireland and Scotland.

From the 9th to the 13th century, the technique of cloisonné – painted in gold are widespread in Europe and the Near East, with the best jewels of this type from Constantinople (now Istanbul), capital of the Byzantine Empire.

Gold jewelry in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance

In the year 962 AD, just after the creation of the Holy Roman Empire (located in Central Europe) there was a fusion of Mediterranean and European civilizations, and this had an effect on the jewelry too.

The Emperor and the Church became the patron of the arts. Jewelers worked in courts and monasteries. During this time, jewelry design was based on the creation of gold and precious stones and pearls in colorful patterns. Precious stones, which were polished, but only to natural forms, is credited with magical powers. For example, sapphire, symbol of chastity and peace of soul, was used for the papal ring.

Old cameo gems were prized as Jewelry is set in medieval and given a Christian interpretation. Until that time, the European jewelry is mainly produced in the imperial workshops and monastic. However, in the 13th century a system of independent guilds of goldsmiths was established in European capitals.

Gothic jewelry reflects the chivalrous ethics aristocratic society of this time in its symbolism and the frequent use of the loving inscriptions. Jewelry, which has always had great affinity with the modes of dress, often took the form of brooches and other fastenings such as belt clasps.

The snap ring, the most common form of jewelry in 13th century, was probably given as a token of love or commitment. A pendant is sometimes used as a reliquary. The use of earrings completely stopped, because women had made jewelry headgear that concealed the ears. About 1300, French jewelers began to use translucent enamels over engraved silver or gold.

In the next article in this series see the history of gold jewelry over the last five hundred years.

About the Author

Lewis Jewelers is proud to carry the full line of
Pandora Jewelry
. Pandora bracelets, Pandora Charms and Pandora beads are only a part of the collection. For more information, Lewis Jewelers, 2000 West Stadium Blvd., Ann Arbor, Michigan, 48103, 877-88-LEWIS or visit the website.

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